Time for a change - I have been thinking a lot about writing my blog posts in English, so from now on that is what I am going to do. More people are interested in what I am doing so its about time to do this in English..
To day I went on the seasons first one-day trip to Kjugekull. Its my home turf and I love the place!
Its always a battle with the weather trying to find the perfect velcro-stick conditions. So driving towards Kjugekull I looked for the signs that this would be a good day for climbing hard! Unfortunately the place was soaking wet. We tried to warm up on some easier boulders ("The four-layer man in the two-layer version 7A) before looking for some "dry" challenges..
Some of the unfinished projects were dry, but we decided to try Imperator ss 8A and the climbs in that part of the forest. I knew there was a new, easier beta for the huge deadpoint to the lip. With a high right heelhook I could move statically to the lip! I tried to get the ascent on video, but my iphone could not save the video. Therefore I had to climb the sit again - this time my iphone ran out of power! So only one picture survived the power shutdown..
Immediately after sending the stand start I went for the sit - only one go and great success! With the new beta it feels so easy. The season is on and I cant wait to climb the unfinished projects in the forest.